Cozinha de Goa:

This cookbook showcases an entire range of Goan food, with special attention to fish, prawn, pork and chicken. Over two hundred recipes from one of the best coastal cuisines of India.

The spicy, succulent seafood of Goa is as famous as the golden beaches and lush landscape of this premier tourist destination of India. Traditional, the Goan staple was fish curry and rice but under Portuguese influence thee developed a distinctive cuisine that combined the flavors of Indian and European cooking, with local ingredients being used to approximate the authentic Portuguese taste.

So fish and meat pies ere baked with slit green chilies, assado or roast was cooked with cinnamon and peppercorns, pal or bread was fermented with toddy, and the famous baked bol was made with coconut and semolina. This innovated, largely non-vegetarian cuisine, was offset by the traditional and no less sumptuous vegetarian creations from the Konkan coastland, rich with coconut and spice.


Table of Contents

I APPETIZERS

FOFO Fish Rolls

TORRADAS DE CAMARAO
Prawn Toasts

RISSOIS DE CAMARAO
Prawn Turnovers

ALMONDEGAS DE CAMARAO
Prawn Cakes

PAPARIS RECHEADOS
Stuffed Papads

PASTEIS DE OSTRAS
Oyster Patties

FORMINHAS COM MEXILHOES
Mussel Tartlets

EMPADINHAS
Little Pork Pies

PASTEIS FAVORITOS
Favorite Patties

CROQUETTES
Rissoles

PAO COM CHOURICO
Goa Sausage Burgers

BOJE
Nuggets of Bengal Gram

II SOUPS

SOPA DE CAMARAO
Prawn Soup

SOPA DE CAMARAO BATATA Prawn Soup with Potatoes

CALDO DE GALINHA
Chicken Broth

SOPA GROSSA
Minestrone – Goan Style

CALDO VERDE
Spinach Soup

SOPA DE REPOLHO
Cabbage Soup

III FISH

CALDINHO
Mild Fish Curry

CALDEIRADA
Mild Fish Curry

CARIL DE PEIXE
Fish Curry

AMBOT-TIK
Hot and Sour Fish Curry

PEIXE A PORTUGUESA
Fish – Portuguese Style

BARRADA DE PEIXE
Curried Fish – Daman Style

FRITADA DE PEIXE
Fried Fish in Gravy

ALMONDEGAS DE PEIXE
Fish Cakes

FILETES ENROLADAS DE CACAO OU RAIA
Rolled Fillet of Baby Shark or Skate Fish

PEIXE RECHEADO COM TEMPERO VERDE
Whole Fish with Green Masala

PEIXE SERRA TEMPERADO
Spiced Whole Kingfish

PEIXE RECHEADOS
Stuffed Fried Fish

CAVALAS FUMADAS EM FENO
Smoked Mackerel

Salad of Salted Mackerel

BACALHAU
Portuguese Salt Cod with Dried Beans

CARIL DE CAMARAO
Prawn Curry

ZEQ ZEQ
Thick Cray Fish or Lobster Curry

12 Other Recipes in this section

IV CHICKEN

ESTEW A MARIA FELICIA
Maria Felicia’s Chicken Stew

CARIL DE GALINHA
Chicken Curry

GALINHA PICANTE A ANGELA MERICIA
Spicy Chicken a la Angela Mericia

GALINHA CAFREAL
Chicken Barbecue

FRANGO VENECIANA
Chicken Venecian

GALANTINE DE GALINHA
Galintine of Chicken

ASSADO DE GALINHA COM CHOURICO DE REINO
Roast Chicken with Portuguese Sausage

FRANGO VERA
Chicken Vera
GALINHA A ALZIRA
Alzira’s Chicken

XACUTI DE GALINHA
Chicken Curry

V MUTTON AND BEEF

XACUTI DE CARNEIRO
Mutton Curry

PAO RECHEADO COM CARNE PICADA
Stuffed Mince Loaf

CARNE PICANTE COM BATARA-DOCE
Savory Mince with Sweet Potatoes

CASSEROLE DE CARNE
Baked Savory Mince with Potatoes

BOLINHAS DE CARNE EM CARIL VERDE
Meatballs in Green Curry

CARIL DE BIFE
Curried Beef

BIFE A PAIS DE GOA
Goa Country-style Beef

BIFE BAFAD
Thick Beef Curry

BIFE COM CEBOLAS
Onion Steaks

ASSADO DE BIFE
Roast Beef

BIFE ENROLADO
Rolled Beef

ENROLADOS DE BIFE
Beef Rolls

GUIZADO DE LINGUA A TIA ANU
Stewed Tongue a la Tia Anu

LINGUA ASSADA EM POTE
Pot-Roasted Tongue

ISCAS
Stir Fried Liver

FIGADO COM CEBOLAS
Liver with Onions

ALMONDEGAS DE MIOLO
Brain Cutlets

VI PORK
LEITAO ASSADO
Roast Suckling

ASSADO DE PORCO
Pot Roast of Pork

PERNAS DE LEITAO ASSADO
Roast Suckling Hams

VINDALHO DE PARCO
Spicy Pork Curry

SARAPATEL
Spicy Curry of Pork and Liver

CABIDELA
Curried Pigling

AADMAAS
Meat Bone Curry

PEET-ACHEM MAAS
Savory Pork Stew

CARNE DE PORCO EM ‘MARINADA BRANCA’
Pork with Feni

TAMREAL DE PORCO
Pork Stew

PORCO COM CASTANHAS DE JACA
Pork with Jackfruit Seeds

COSTELETAS DE PORCO EM FENI
Pork Chops in Feni

CARNE DE PORCO SALGADA
Salted Pork

PES DE PORCO TEMPERADOS
Trotters

CHOURICO DE GOA
Goa Sausages

FEIJOADA
Goa Sausages with Dried Beans

CHOURICO DO REINO
Portuguese Sausages

VII VEGETABLES

TAMBADI BHAJI
Savory Red Amaranthus

FUGAD DE REPOLHO
Savory Cabbage with Coconut

MERGOL DE QUIABOS
Okra – Goan Style

SUQUEM DE ABOBORA – I
Savory Red Pumpkin

SUQUEM DE ABOBORA – II
Savory Red Pumpkin

CALDINHO DE ABOBORA BRANCE
Mild Curry of White Pumpkin

PODOLLIM RECHEADO COM BATATA-DOCE
Snake Gourd Stuffed with Sweet Potatoes

SALADA DE REPOLHO
Cabbage Salad

BATATA – DOCE PICANTE
Savory Sweet Potatoes

BERINGELAS FRITAS
Fried Sliced Aubergine

SUQUEM DE BRINGELAS
Savory Aubergines

CARATINS PICANTES
Spicy Bitter Gourd

CARATINS RECHEADOS COM BARATA-DOCE
Bitter Gourd Stuffed with Savory Sweet Potatoes

PREPARADO PICANTE DE JACA VERDE
Curried Tender Jackfruit

MELGOR
Black-eyed Beans with Coconut

SORAK
Curry Sauce

AGSAL
Pepper Water

COCONUT KOKUM CURRY

VIII RICE

ARROZ COM COCO
Coconut Rice

ARROZ REFOGADO
Baked Rice Pulau

ARROZ DE CAMARAO
Prawn Pulau

ARROZ A PORTUGUESA
Pulau – Portuguese Style

IX BREADS

SANA
Steamed Rice Cakes

SANDON
Steamed Rice Cakes with Savory or Sweet Filling

ODDE
Poori

COYLOYEO
Rice Flour Griddle Cakes

APA DE ARROZ
Rice Chappatti

CHITIAPS
Rich Rice Pancakes

APA DE NACHINI
Ragi Flour Chapatti

X DESSERTS

BEBINCA
Rich Multi-layered Cake

DEDOS DE DAMA
Marzipan Lady’s Fingers

LEITRIA
Tender Coconut and Egg Sweet

TEIAS DE ARANHA
Cobwebs

BOLO TATIANA
Nut Cake

CREPES
Pancakes

ALE BELE
Coconut Filled Pancakes

GUARDANAPOS
Pancakes in Coconut and Jaggery Syrup

VELUDO DE COCO
Coconut Velvet

PUREE GELADO DE MANGA
Mango Fool

MOLDE DE MANGADA
Jellied Mango Preserve

BEBINCA DE BATATA
Mock Bebinca

EMPADA DE COCO E SEMOLINA
Coconut Pie

XI SWEETS

DODOL
Coconut and Rice Sweet

DOCE DE GRAO
Coconut and Bengal Gram Sweet

DOCE BAJI
Coconut and Broken Wheat Sweet

COCADA
Coconut and Semolina Sweet

MODAK/PUDDE
Sweet Rice Cones

CASA DE CIDRA CRISTALIZADA
Crystallized Citron Peel

DELICIA FIGO D’HORTA
Banana Delight

FIGADA
Banana Preserve

MANGADA
Mango Preserve

GIRGILADA
Sesame Seed Toffee

CORDEAL
Almond Toffee

MANDARE
Sweet Papadums of Rice and Pumpkin

MACAPAO
Marzipan

BATEGA
Coconut Cake

BOLINHAS DE MEL
Honey Cakes

COSCOROES
Sweet Shell-shaped Pastries

MERENDA DE BATATA-DOCE
Sweet Potato Merenda

OHN
Coconut and Green Bean Sweet

ATTOL
Merenda of Bengal Gram

MERENDA DE NACHINI
Ragi Merenda

BANANAS DE MOIRA ASSADAS
Baked Moira Bananas

SHEWYO
Steamed Rice Noodles

XII RELISHES, CHUTNEYS & PICKLES

SPICED WHITE PRAWNS

CHETNIM DE TOMATO
Tomato Chutney

CHETNIM DOCE DE MANGA (TIA CARU)
Tia Caru’s Sweet Mango Chutney

CHETNIM VERDE
Green Chutney

PICKLES

PARA
Hot Pickled Salt Fish

MOL DE CAMARAO
Prawn Pickle

BALCHAO DE CAMARAO – I
Prawn Balchao

BALCHAO DE CAMARAO – II
Prawn Balchao

MANCUINHAS EM AGUA E SAL CHEPNIM
Mango Water Pickle

MISCUT
Hot Mango Pickle

ACHAR DE LIMAO PICANTE
Lime Pickle

ACHAR DE LIMAO DOCE
Sweet and Sour Lime Pickle

ACHAR DE BERINGELAS
Aubergine Pickle

ACHAR DE TENDLIM
Tendli Pickle

ACHAR DE BILIMBINS
Bimblee Pickle

XIII BEVERAGES

ORCHATA
Almond Sherbet

XAROPE DE LIMAO
Lime Sherbet

XAROPE DE BRINDAO
Kokum Syrup

VINHO DE GENGIBRE
Ginger Wine

VINHO DE SEIVA DE COQUEIRO
Toddy Wine

XIV GLOSSORY

XV INDEX


About the Author

MARIA TERESA (TESSA) MENEZES was born in Mumbai in 1926. She graduated from St. Xavier’s College and soon, after married an officer in the Indian Navy. Her father, as Honorary Consul for Brazil, would often entertain at home, with one of the daughters being made responsible for the menu and overseeing the cooking. The cuisine was normally Goan. Tessa’s mother-in-law, Maria Felicia Menezes, was also an excellent cook.

Introduction
Down Town
Getting There
Finding Your Feet
Eating Out
Shopping
Accommodation

Goa is a paradise for seafood aficionados. It isn’t all about fish curry and rice, however. The fruits can not get fresher, and the Goans treat them with respect, lightly poaching, grilling or baking their fish without drowning it in sauces and spices, and including clams, squid, crabs, lobster and prawns regularly in their meals. On the other hand, if spice and serious meat is what you want, you’ve come to the right place again – the Portuguese-influenced vindaloos, sorpotels, recheados and balchaos, stalwarts of Goan Catholic kitchens, are basically beef-and pork-centric, redolent of toddy-based vinegar, and worthy challenges for the most chilli-seasoned palates. The Hindu cuisine (xacutis, sukkes, ambotiks, foogaths) is mostly vegetarian, but when meat-based, uses chicken and lamb and features plenty of coconut milk, tamarind and kokum for tang. The curries are normally eaten with Goan red rice, poie, a leavened Goan bread, or sanna, steamed crescent shaped dumplings.

Dessert is always bebinca, the layered sweet pancake that uses eggs, flour, butter, sugar and coconut milk in its batter and takes eight hours to make, or dodhol, a heady combination of coconut milk and jaggery reduced over slow fire until thick and creamy.

To wash it all down, there is sweet red Goan port wine, or cashew feni, Goa’s ‘national drink’. There is also Goan beer, of course. Choose from Arlem, Belo and the perennial favourite – Kings. Of course, eating at a Goan house is the best way to experience Goan cuisine, but there are a couple of Goan restaurants where the real McCoy is available on the menu. In North Goa, Florentine’s has basic seating and service but the most amazing food, especially the fish curry and the chicken cafreal; and Souza Lobo, a shack restaurant on Calangute. In Panjim, there’s no better place than Mum’s Kitchen in Miramar, just around the corner from the Marriott. Further south, the simple 40-something-year-old Martin’s Corner at Betalbatim is the most celebrated, and has entertained clients, the likes of Gregory Peck and Roger Moore.

J&A’s Little Italy

Baga River, Bardez Jamshed and Ayesha (J&A) Madon’s Ristorante Italiano serves some seriously delicious and creative Italian food. Ayesha is the talented chef, turning out a variety of insalata, antipasti and main courses, while Jamshed’s pride is his wood-fired pizza oven and well-stocked bar. Recommendations: ravioli stuffed with caramelised onions, raisins, and the Madons’ patented oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fiesta

Opp Club Tito’s, Baga Beach Maneck and Yellow Contractor’s 200-cover restaurant is spread over a huge area, and usually has people waiting for a table. Yellow, looks after the kitchen while sailing enthusiast Maneck is involved with taking tours aboard the Viva Fiesta, a sleek little catamaran, and the Precious Dragon, a historic Chinese junk. Don’t miss the pizza caprese.

A Reverie ( Gaurawaddo, Calangute )

Aakritee, who worked for many years in the F&B and corporate training departments of the Taj Group, now turns her fine feel for food into such delights as marinated mushrooms with a Greek-style yoghurt dip and roulade of chicken breast with spinach, mushroom and mozzarella filling.

After Eight ( Gaurawaddo, Calangute )

Ex-Taj staffer Leo D’Souza’s Continental restaurant is most famous for its steaks, and attracts a steady stream of loyal, word-of-mouth clientele. Top picks: fish in rum and lemon sauce, prawns in white wine sauce, and of course the steaks.

Le Restaurant Francais ( Khobravaddo, Calangute )

The Eiffel Tower looms out of the trees in one corner. Tall backlit red drapes take up another. Three waiting areas with mismatched chairs, divans, and even a wooden elephant hunker down among the tables. Do not miss the fondant au chocolat, the seasonal-fruit-based sorbets, the beef pave with three condiments, and the tomato crumble topped with buttered walnuts.

Lila Café ( Baga River, Bardez )

Often simply referred to as the German Bakery, Elizabeth and Fritz-Ingo Topel’s airy, white-muslin draped café on the banks of the Baga River is now only open through the day. This is a great place to hit for a leisurely, long-winded brunch. On the menu are fruit and vegetable juices, Greek salad, Hungarian goulash, Swiss potato rosti with ham and cheese, and much more. You can also take away loaves of German sourdough and pumpernickel bread.

Venites

Hotel Venite, 31 January Road, (the lane between GPO and Tourist Hostel), Panjim Located on the first floor of a 200-year-old building, Venites, also known as Hospedaria Venite, still retains the ambience of a bygone era. The flooring is wooden, salvaged from Portuguese ship wrecks. The décor is rustic with simple tables and chairs, some as small as that in a kindergarten class. Shells and earthenware adorn the walls and ceiling. Recommendations: Prawn fillet with tartare sauce, grilled shark fillets, hot garlic mussels, masala-stuffed mackerel, beef steak with mushrooms, mango melba.

Horseshoe

E245, Rua de Ourem, Panjim In the Latin quarter of Panjim, straddling the division of Fontainhas and St. Tome is this quaint and homely place overlooking the creek that serves Portuguese Goan cuisine. Very elegant décor, wrought iron furniture, colourful cushions, arches, a view of the spic and span kitchen with chefs at work. Recommendations: chorizos (pan-fried Goan sausages), iscas de galinha (fried chicken liver), mousse de galinha (chicken pate with toasted bread), caldo verde (potato puree soup with shredded greens), peixe em mo galinha piri piri (chicken marinated in a paste of peri peri and Goan herbs), peixe em moho de alhos manteiga (fish with butter garlic sauce and herbs), bolo saus rival (cashewnut-based cake).

Martin’s Beach Corner ( Behind Peace Have, Caranzalem )

Very rustic shack-like structures, the sea breeze hitting you, view of the beach and the sea, noted for its live music of years gone by serves. Goan seafood. Recommendations: Mussels fried, mussels masala or garlic fried, crab boiled or fried, shark fish and fried masala, shark ambotik, fish balchao; prawn balchao, fish or prawn curry rice.

Quarterdeck ( Mandovi Riviera, opposite The Mandovi, Panjim )

A return-to-nature restaurant facing the Mandovi river, plenty of greenery and open space, twinkling lights after sundown and a view of the Santa Monica cruising past in the river serves. Goan, Chinese, Indian, tandoori and Continental food. Recommendations: Murgh hariyali tikka, chicken tikka masala; paneer butter masala, quarterdeck special salad, cottage cheese shashlik, chicken cafreal, chilli fish in green pepper. Chaats, sandwiches, burgers and pizzas served in between lunch and dinner.

O Cozinheiro ( Near football ground, Caranzalem )

Meaning ‘the chief’, this place, tucked down a narrow lane off the main road unfolds into a huge eatery. Inside, it is cosy with roses on the tables, outside there is an open-air section that can also be given out for private parties. Recommendations: Crab xec xec, prawn balchao, pomfret stuffed masala, piggling roast, tongue roast, pork sorpotel with sannas, pork vindaloo, jumbo or tiger prawns, prawn curry rice, seafood fried rice comprising prawns, mussels, squid, fish with boiled vegetables, salad or french fries.

The Promenade

Rua de Ourem, Patto, Panjim A two-tiered restaurant, Gazeebo on the ground level and Dragon upstairs, with fiery red décor. Located in the middle of the Panjim creek, it seems a nice getaway from it all. It serves continental, Italian and Goan at Gazeebo, Chinese at Dragon. Recommendations: At Gazeebo are Tuna fish salad, chickpea salad, seafood sizzler, chicken lasagne, seafood lasagne. At Dragon: Dragon tail prawns, spicy chicken, spare ribs, crispy wontons, asparagus soup, Dragon phoenix soup, three treasure jade soup, king prawns fantasy.

Goenchin ( Mandovi Apartment, Dr. D.V. Road, near Mahalaxmi Temple, Panjim ) Many consider this the best Chinese restaurant in Goa. Bathed in red and green décor with soft music in the air, the place is soon filled with a healthy buzz. Recommendations: Goenchin special soup, crackling spinach, cha tai hai, veg balls in hot green sauce.

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